The Kakamega Forest in eastern Kenya is a beautifully rural area, a bit off the beaten path. Once part of a vast tropical rainforest stretching across equatorial Africa, this park is the last remaining rainforest in Kenya. Home to over 300 species of birds, 400 species of butterflies, and nearly 400 species of shrubs and trees. This old growth forest provides habitat to numerous plants and animals endemic to Kakamega, found nowhere else on earth. Our guide, Abraham, grew up here, climbing the trees, mimicking bird calls, learning the healing powers of plants and developing a powerful ethic of conservation and education. Abraham seems to be as deeply embedded in the life of the local community as he is a part of the forest itself. It was a gift to spend several days with him, walking and learning through the maze of trails. A 750 yr old Elgin Teak tree, the Poteria with big grooves in the bark, funneling water into pools at the base for animals to drink. Used by humans to boost immunity. The aptly named sandpaper tree. So many massive trees with strong buttresses for support. Because rainforest soil is fertile only in the top layer of humus, even tree roots are shallow. The buttresses give them strength to reach for the sun. Twisting vines and dainty orchids; ferns and lichen and strangler ficus. A sea of browns and greens. Splashes of color darting by. On our final morning in Kakamega, motorbikes picked us up before dawn, carrying us deep into the park along a muddy red road to a small opening, an inconspicuous trailhead. We hiked through the darkness, listening to the sounds as the forest slowly awakened— Colobus monkeys, black and white hornbills, bee eaters, wattle eyes, drongos, robin chats, weavers and seed eaters…So many voices we can hear but not see. We hiked up and up, above the canopy to the highest point on Lirhanda hill. Standing in awe as the sun emerged above the distant hills—deepening pinks to rosy oranges, as the sky lightened to blue. Mist hanging low among the still dark trees on the forest floor. The sound of the river roaring its way through the green tangle, the boom of a crashing tree, monkeys chattering. Maybe laughing. Birds singing. Tall grass still wet with dew. A Sublime moment.

And then the long walk back.